Making of cuff links and the like



May 26, 1959 Filed March 12, 1957 .F .mo 6 e0 m V- R N E H United States Patent MAKING OF CUFF LINKS AND THE LIKE Henry Bogott, Chicago, 111. Application March 12, 1957, Serial No. 645,459

8 Claims. (Cl. 22-202) This invention relates to the making of cuif links and the like and particularly to the production of jeweled articles of such a character.

Where jewels are to be mounted in the heads of culf links or the like it is customary to produce such heads by casting a metal base with the requisite mounting recesses to receive the jewels, and thereafter to secure the jewels in position adhesively or by working or bending of the metal of the base to provide the necessary jewel retaining or holding means.

In contrast to the foregoing, it is the object of this invention to enable the jewels to be cast in place in such cuff links and the like, and a more specific object is to enable this to be done in such a way that precision in the location and relationship of the jewels is readily attained. Another and related object is to enable such jewels to be cast in place even where the jewels are disposed in different planes to attain unusual depth in the completed article.

Other and further objects of the present invention will be apparent from the following description and claims, and are illustrated in the accompanying drawings, which, by way of illustration, show preferred embodiments of the present invention and the principles thereof, and what is now considered to be the best mode in which to apply these principles. Other embodiments of the invention embodying the same or equivalent principles may be made as desired by those skilled in the art without departing from the invention.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a face view of the head of a jeweled cufl? link.

Figs. 2 and 3 are side views of the cuff link.

Fig. 4 is a bottom view of the head of the cuff link.

Figs. 5 and 6 are sectional views taken respectively along the lines 5-5 and 6-6 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 7 is a composite view showing the parting faces and mold cavities of a mold used in casting the head of the culf link shown in Figs. 1 to 6. p 1

Fig. 8 is a sectional view taken along the line 8-8 of Fig. 7. 1.

Figs. 9 and 10 are sectional views taken along the lines 9-9 and 10-10 of Fig. 7.

' Fig. 11 is a sectional view of the assembled mold.

Fig. 12 is a side elevational view illustrating-another jewel mounting made under the present invention.

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary cross sectional view of the mold used in forming the jewel mounting of Fig. 12, the view being taken in the position indicated by line 13-13 of Fig. 12, and

r Fig. 14 is a view taken through the mold at the position indicated by the line 14-14 of Fig. 12.

For purposes of disclosure the invention is herein il lustrated in Figs. 1 to 10 as embodied in a cuff link 15 having a jeweled cast metal head '16 with a separately formed stem 17 fastened at one end to the bottom of the head 16 and having a pivoted cross bar 18 at the other end bf the stem. The head 16 embodies a plu- 2 with the production of the head 16 in such a way that the jewels 1 may be cast in place in the head 16 in the casting operation in which the head 16 is formed. As herein shown, the head 16 has a cast metal body in which the jewels 1 are disposed at three different levels so that the jewels at the upper levels partially overlie the jewels at the lower levels, and with this arrangement a considerable depth is imparted to the head. Thus, foursquare cut jewels 1-1 are symmetrically arranged in the lower level in the head 16; four generally oval-cut jewels 1-2 are symmetrically arranged in somewhat cruciform relation or design at the second level so as to over-' lie the adjacent edges of the jewels 1-1 while exposing the major portions of the jewels 1-1; while a single round-cut jewel 1-3 is disposed at the third level at the center of the head 16 and overlying centrally located portions or edges of the jewels 1-1 and 1-2; and the several jewels 1 are held in place in metal body by positioning and holding means that assume their final form in the head-casting operation. Such positioning and holding means are provided by backing members 20 and retaining fingers 21 for the respective jewels. Thus each of the lower jewels 1-1 has a backing member 20-1-1 in the form of a square-shaped band as shown in Figs. 4 and 5 which conform with and engages the back surfaces of jewels 1-1 and these bands are arranged so that each square band has two of its sides adjacent to the sides of two adjacent bands, and near their outer ends the adjacent sides of adjacent bands are cast integrally as shown in Fig. 4. Thus bands 20-1-1 provide a base structure of the head, and on the outer side portions of the respective bands narrow retaining fingers 21-1-1 are formed integrally with the bands to extend about the edges of the jewels 1-1 and slightly over inwardly sloping upper faces of such jewels. The bands 20-1-1 have square central openings 21H, as shown in Figs. 4

' and 5 for purposes that will become apparent from the rality of jewels 1 and the present invention'is concerned 1 description of the casting operation as set forth hereinafter.

The other or inside edges of the jewels 1-1 are partially concealed by the oval jewels 1-2, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and where the jewels 1-1 are thus concealed they are held in position by portions of backing members 20-1-2 that cast integrally with the backing bands 20- 1-1 as shown in Fig. 5 and which are integrally connected and extend beneath the respective jewels 1-2 as shown in Figs. 6. At their outer ends the backing members 20-1-2 have upwardly extending integral retaining fingers 21-1-2 that extend about the edges of the jewels J-2 and engage the boarding edges of such jewels to' hold the same in place.

At their inner ends the jewels 1-2 are held in place by overlying portions of an upwardly extending backing member 20-1-3 that is cast integrally with the underlying portions of the backing members 20-1-2.

The backing member 20-1-3 underlies the entire back of the jewel 1-3 and has four integral retaining fingers 21-1-3 extended about the edges of the jewel 1-3 so as to hold such jewel in position.

As shown in Figs. 2 and 4 to 6 the stem 17 is con nected to the central juncture of the backing bands 20-1-1 by means such as a connecting pin 22 that may be soldered into a recess in the cast body. V

In Figs. 7 toll a mold 25 is illustrated that is used in casing the head 16 with the several jewels in their final positions thereon. The mold 25 is made from rubber and comprises a bottom section 25B and a top section 2ST that meet at a parting face 26. The top section 251' serves to provide the major portion of the mold cavity and when inverted as shown in Figs. 9 and 10 the several jewels '1-1, 1-2 and 1-3 may be inserted therein as indicated in dotted outline, after which the mold section 25B may be inverted and put in place in the relationship shown in Figs. 8 and 11.

In loading the mold section 2ST, the jewel J-3 is first put in place in the deepest portion 27-1-3 of the mold cavity, and it will be noted that in such insertion the jewel 1-3 must be forced past lips 28 that will then overlie border portions of the sloping rear face of the jewel 1-3, as shown in Fig. 10. The cavity 27-1-3 is complemental in most respects to the forward face of the jewel 1-3 while providing for the formation of the fingers 21-1-3 and the back support 21-1-3, and it will be noted that the retaining shoulders or lips 28 extend laterally between the cavity portions that define the fingers 21-1-3 so that in the final casting a narrow border portion of the rear face of the jewel 1-3 is exposed as shown at 29 in Fig. 2. The shoulders or lips 28 function to hold the jewel 1-3 accurately in position in the mold and, being 65B, and matching mold cavity sections 67T and 67B are formed respectively in such mold sections. The cavity section 67T is in most respects complemental to the forward faces of the jewel 1-5 and to the border portions of the mount 60 and the retaining elements 62, while the cavity section 67B defines most of the mount 60. The cavity section 67T is however, formed with narrow retaining lips or tongues 68, Fig. 13, that extend over the rear face 61, and these lips 68, being of rubber, are resilient in character so that they do not interfere with loading or unloading of the mold, and yet these lips, or tongues serve to hold the jewel J-5 accurately in position in the mold. The lips or tongues 68 are made from rubber, do not interfere with the loading of the mold or unloading of the casting.

The jewels 1-2 are then put in place in cavity portions 27-1-2 of the mold, and here again the mold cavity is complemental to the forward faces of the jewels 1-2 and the backing -1-2 and the fingers 21-1-2; and in this instance the jewels 1-2 are held in place by resilient means located in part on each of the mold sections. Thus the outermost ends of the jewels 1-2 have their outer ends extended beneath resilient shoulders 35, Fig. 11, that engage the border portions of the back surface of the jewels 1-2 between the locations of the finers 21-1-2. Near their inner ends the jewels 1-2 are held in place, when the mold is assembled, by narrow resilient ribs 36, Figs. 7, 8 and 11, that are formed as portions of the mold section 25B.

The jewels 1-1 are then put in place in the mold section 2ST in cavity portions 27-1-1, Figs. 10 and 11, and these cavity portions are complemental to the. forward faces of these jewels and to the end portions of the fingers 21-1-1. The jewels 1-1 are loose in the cavity portions 27-1-1, and are held in place by resilient portions of the mold section 25B when the mold is assembled. Thus the mold section 25B has matched cavity portions 38-1-1 that are separated by the ribs or fins 36, and are complemental to the supporting bands 20-1-1 and the lower portions of the fingers 21-1-1; and each of the cavity portions 38-1-1 has a resilient central projection 39 which engages the rear points of the jewels 1-1 as shown in Figs. 8 and 11 to hold the same in position. The projections 39 serve to define the openings 21-H, Fig. 4.

In Figs. 12 to 14 of the drawings the invention is illustrated in an alternative form wherein a solid-back jewel mount 60 is provided that is of particular advantage where a foil-backed jewel 1-5 is to be used. Such foilbacked jewels 1-5 have a thin foil on their sloping rear face 61 and it is recognized that any substantial exposure of such rear face 61 renders it impossible to buff the rear surfaces of the mount 60 without removing or scratching the exposed foil. As shown in Fig. 12, the mount 60 is formed from metal as a solid covering for the entire rear surface of the jewel 1-5, and suitable extensions are provided about the edges of the jewel to provide holding means 62. Such holding means may take the form of prongs or fingers.

In those border portions of the mount 60 between retaining means 62 the metal of the mount extends to the very edge of the back 61 of the jewel 1-5 with the exception that narrow notches 63 are formed at spaced points as shown in Fig. 12. These narrow notches 63 extend to the opposed back face 61, and yet, because of their narrow width, the notches 63 do not objectionably expose the foil-back of the jewel. Hence the surfaces of the mount 60 may be bufied or polished without disturbing the foil.

In Figs. 13 and 14 a rubber mold 65 is fragmentally shown having top and bottom mold sections 6ST and provided at the positions indicated by the notches 63 in Fig. 12, and it is such tongues that cause the formation of the narrow notches 63 in the mount 60.

Since the notches 63 are relatively narrow as compared with the thickness of the metal back, the back may be subject to the usual bufling and polishing operations without damage to the foil back of the jewel 1-5. This result follows because the narrow and relatively deep characteristics of the openings or notches 63 prevents entry of the holding or polishing means to such an extent as might cause damage to the foil back. 7

From the foregoing description it will be apparent that the present invention enables jewels to be cast in place in cuff links or other items of jewelry, and that the invention enables this to be done in such a way that precision in the location and relationship of the jewels may be easily attained. It will be evident also that this invention enables jewels to be cast in place in an article of jewelry even though these jewels may be disposed in different planes or difierent levels in the jewelry that is being produced.

Thus while I have illustrated and described preferred embodiments of my invention it is to be understood that changes and variations may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the appending claims.

I claim:

1. In the production of a jewel mount having a metal support member with a jewel disposed therein and having integral retaining means extended onto border portions of the forward face of the jewel, the method which consists in forming a sectional rubber mold with a cavity in one section complemental to the forward face of the jewel and having narrow resilient retaining tongues formed to extend over border portions of the back of a jewel to hold the same in position, and with the balance of the cavity formed in the other of the mold sections to define a full back cover for a jewel, putting a jewel in the cavity section of said one mold section with said tongues holding the jewel in place, and casting the mount with the jewel in place therein.

2. The method of casting a jewel in place in a jewel mount which consists in providing a sectional rubber mold having a mold cavity formed complemental to the jewel and the mount and having integral resilient portions of one section of the mold positioned to overlie border portions of the rear face of the jewel to hold the same in position in the cavity, putting a jewel in such position, and casting the mount with the jewel in position therein.

3. The method of producing jewelry having a jewel carried on a metal body which consists in retaining a jewel in position in the cavity of a rubber mold by integral rubber retaining elements forming part of the mold and engaging rear surface portions of a jewel to hold the jewel in position during the casting operation.

4. The method of making jewelry that has a metal body with jewels fixed thereon at a plurality of levels which consists in forming a sectional rubber mold with one section being a deep cavity to receive a jewel that is to be disposed at the highest level on the metal body, such deep cavity having integral resilient shoulders to engage rear surfaces to hold the jewel in position, said one section having other mold cavities shaped to receive the other jewels that are to be disposed at other levels on the metal body, forming the other mold section with resilient rubber means formed integrally therewith to engage the rear faces of said other jewels in place in said other mold cavities, and with cavity portions defining interconnecting backing and retaining means for the several jawels, loading jewels into said mold, and pouring the mold to cast the jewels in a metal body.

5. The method of casting jewels in place in an item of jewelry which consists in producing a pattern having a plurality of jewels in the desired relation with interconnected backs for all of the jewels with retaining means extended from the backs about the edges of the jewels and into engagement with the borders of the front faces of the jewels, and with said backs formed to expose portions of the back of each of the jewels, forming a rubber mold from said pattern, loading jewels into the cavity of such mold, and pouring the mold to cast a duplicate of such pattern.

6. The method of casting jewels in place in an item of jewelry which consists in producing a pattern having a plurality of jewels in the desired relation with interconnected backs for all of the jewsls with retaining means extended from the backs about the edges of the jewels and into engagement with the borders of the front faces of the jewels, and with said backs formed to expose central portions of certain of such jewels and to expose narrow border portions of the other jewels, forming a rubber mold from said pattern, loading jewels into the cavity of such mold, and pouring the mold to cast a duplicate of such pattern.

7. The method of enabling a foil-backed jewel to be cast in place in a protected relation in a mount which consists in producing a pattern having a jewel of the desired form mounted with a full metal back having jewel retaining means and having narrow slots formed at U spaced points in the border portion of said back to expose narrow sections of the border portion of the back of the jewel, forming a resilient rubber mold from said pattern, loading a foil-backed jewel in the mold cavity and pouring the mold to produce a duplicate of such pattern.

8. The method of enabling a foil-backed jewel to be cast in place in a protected relation in a mount so that the mount may thereafter be bufied Without damage to such foil which consists in producing a pattern having a jewel of the desired form mounted with a full back of substantial thickness and having jewel retaining means and also having narrow openings formed at spaced points in the border portion of said back to expose narrow sections of the back of the jewel, forming a resilient rubber mold from said pattern, loading a foil-backed jewel in the mold cavity and pouring the mold to produce a duplicate of such pattern.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 151,538 Husbands June 2, 1874 336,568 Jackson Feb. 23, 1886 726,644 Comins Apr. 28, 1903 748,996 Spencer Jan. 5, 1904 779,979 Walter Jan. 10, 1905 1,021,348 Bryant Mar. 26, 1912 1,572,349 Chamberlin Feb. 9, 1926 2,201,131 Jungersen May 14, 1940 2,355,853 Foxon Aug. 15, 1944 FOREIGN PATENTS 475,067 Great Britain Nov. 12, 1937 OTHER REFERENCES Publication (Casting in Rubber Molds) Foundry Trade Journal, Sept. 11, 1941. 

